Date
4/9/2014
Location
Downtown (?) Branford
1070 Main Street, Branford, CT
What I ate
Coconut soup
Vegetarian samosa
Hyderabadi mixed vegetables
Garlic naan
Kheer
Who came
Jolene, Michael, Helena, Rempe
Website
Darbar India
Thoughts
This is the hands-down winner for most foot/best value for restaurant week; I've never walked (waddled?) out so stuffed! They didn't have to sacrifice quality for quantity, either. Intrigued by the vegetarian menu, I deviated from my normal choices and was not disappointed. The soup was quite good and a nice way to start the meal, though a little sweet. The samosa was as tasty as expected. The only drawback was that my meat-eating co-diners were given two samosas. I can always use more samosas. Indian cuisine is one of my favorites when it comes to shining the spotlight on vegetables as the main part of an entree and the Hyderabadi mixed vegetables further cemented this in my mind. The garlic naan didn't taste like much, but was an excellent vehicle to sop up anything that was left behind. The kheer could've used some addition, maybe a little bit of fruit or some almonds, but that and already being full didn't stop me from wolfing down the whole thing.
The dining room is big and open, great for a group. The only negatives were with the service. The waiter was friendly and attentive, but didn't seem to fully grasp the restaurant week concept. The timing of service was also a little odd - this was only exacerbated by the fact that the restaurant was mostly empty. The soup and samosas came out in rapid succession, while there were long waits for the entree and dessert courses. This might've been more of a problem without a group as conversation helped cover up the delays, but they were still noticeable.
Recap
Pros - Delicious food and tons of it
Cons - Pacing of the meal was off
Overall - I still haven't had better Indian food in Connecticut. Darbar is my go-to when I'm craving Indian food and restaurant week was no exception. Go. Get good food. Thank me later.
Tuesday, May 20, 2014
Roìa
Date
4/8/2014
Location
Downtown New Haven
261 College Street, New Haven, CT
What I ate
Salad of blood orange, grapefruit, and shaved fennel with toasted nuts
Agneau braise a l'oignon (Braised lamb with onions, kale, peppers, and potato pancakes)
Poppy brioche bread pudding
Website
Roìa
Thoughts
In looking through the New Haven Restaurant Week menus, this was one of the ones that stuck out and it didn't disappoint; let's go right to the food. I'm generally not a fan of grapefruit, but this seemed like a good opportunity to change that and I wasn't keen on the other appetizer options. My only complaint was that there wasn't more of it. It was delicious and I would've eaten a double-portion without hesitation. The entree was even better. The lamb was mixed with the delicious veggies and the potato pancakes acted as a great base, sopping up anything that was left behind. This was also one of the largest portions for an entree I've ever had at any restaurant week, so they score a few bonus points. The dessert was a bit of a letdown. It was good, it just didn't carry through the momentum from the preceding courses. Frankly, it has been about a month since I went and, while I can clearly remember how the salad and the lamb tasted, I'm drawing a bit of a blank on the bread pudding.
The place feels like it used to be a lounge outside of the symphony, but doesn't take itself quite that seriously. The ceilings were tall and, while I liked the sense of openness, it did get a little loud once the place filled up. Still, it had a general inviting feel to it, a little dark, a little warm, but not at all sedate. The wait staff and kitchen were also very accommodating, finding gluten-free substitutions for my date and happily talking through both the menu and wine options. Oh, and don't be thrown off by the sink in what looks like the hallway. There isn't one in the restrooms, so that's what you use. It seemed weird to me, but friends who know such things assure me that's something restaurants do.
Recap
Pros - Tasty food, helpful wait staff, comfortable atmosphere
Cons - A little loud at times
Overall - When the food is that good and the complaints are that weak, it's going to score well. There are so many places in New Haven I still have to try, but I'll be heading back to Roìa before too soon.
4/8/2014
Location
Downtown New Haven
261 College Street, New Haven, CT
What I ate
Salad of blood orange, grapefruit, and shaved fennel with toasted nuts
Agneau braise a l'oignon (Braised lamb with onions, kale, peppers, and potato pancakes)
Poppy brioche bread pudding
Website
Roìa
Thoughts
In looking through the New Haven Restaurant Week menus, this was one of the ones that stuck out and it didn't disappoint; let's go right to the food. I'm generally not a fan of grapefruit, but this seemed like a good opportunity to change that and I wasn't keen on the other appetizer options. My only complaint was that there wasn't more of it. It was delicious and I would've eaten a double-portion without hesitation. The entree was even better. The lamb was mixed with the delicious veggies and the potato pancakes acted as a great base, sopping up anything that was left behind. This was also one of the largest portions for an entree I've ever had at any restaurant week, so they score a few bonus points. The dessert was a bit of a letdown. It was good, it just didn't carry through the momentum from the preceding courses. Frankly, it has been about a month since I went and, while I can clearly remember how the salad and the lamb tasted, I'm drawing a bit of a blank on the bread pudding.
The place feels like it used to be a lounge outside of the symphony, but doesn't take itself quite that seriously. The ceilings were tall and, while I liked the sense of openness, it did get a little loud once the place filled up. Still, it had a general inviting feel to it, a little dark, a little warm, but not at all sedate. The wait staff and kitchen were also very accommodating, finding gluten-free substitutions for my date and happily talking through both the menu and wine options. Oh, and don't be thrown off by the sink in what looks like the hallway. There isn't one in the restrooms, so that's what you use. It seemed weird to me, but friends who know such things assure me that's something restaurants do.
Recap
Pros - Tasty food, helpful wait staff, comfortable atmosphere
Cons - A little loud at times
Overall - When the food is that good and the complaints are that weak, it's going to score well. There are so many places in New Haven I still have to try, but I'll be heading back to Roìa before too soon.
Sunday, February 16, 2014
La Belle Aurore
Date
1/30/2014
Location
Downtown(?) Niantic
75 Pennsylvania Avenue, Niantic, CT
What I ate
Beet and orange parfait with whipped ricotta and pistachios
Sliced tenderloin with maple dijon sauce, greens, and roasted potatoes
Citrus olive oil cake
Who came
Jolene, Michael, Talina, Rempy, Helena, Zurita, Erin
Website
La Belle Aurore
Thoughts
Hat tip to CT Restaurant Weeks for identifying this place. I'm still exploring this town and the surrounding areas, so having a guide like that is helpful. This was one of the few prix fixe menus and the farm to table aspect appealed to me, so away we went.
My food was tasty throughout, though a few parts outshined the rest. The appetizer was delicious. The earthy beets mixed well with the not-too-tart oranges and the different textures - light but rich (weird, I know) cheese, a slight crunch to the beets, the slightly different kind of crunch to the pistachios - kept the whole thing interesting. I would've gladly eaten another one. My steak was pretty good and the potatoes were salty and fried in a very satisfying way, but the greens were the best part of the entree. As deep as we were in winter, the freshness was a welcome change. I'm going to find their supplier and see if I can get some directly. The cake probably wouldn't be great on its own, but it was a pleasant way to end the meal, to tie everything together. It had the "clean" taste that I associate with olive oil cookies and cakes and managed to stay light and mild. Their beer list was small, but had a few great options. As a group, we did a pretty good job with variety, getting at least one of almost everything, so I'll let my friends comment on the other offerings.
It's a cozy place, tucked away in a little strip mall. We were easily the biggest group there, but they were able to seat us comfortably. It felt very homey, like a little cafe; I'm sure it's lovely in warmer weather. There were a few times it felt like the service was a little slow - big gaps between courses, some delay in getting everyone's dish out - but it really wasn't a problem. In fact, it helped keep conversation going. I don't know if this is the same for a couple or a smaller crowd, but it a net positive for our big group. During the meal, I felt like the portions seemed small, but this is another aspect that looks fine in retrospect. I was certainly full at the end of the meal, so I guess it'd be unfair to say portion size was an issue. All told, it was a fun night out with plenty of good food.
Recap
Pros - Local, tasty, creative food, solid beer list
Cons - Small? I'm nit-picking, there wasn't much wrong
Overall - See the last line of the review. The food is good and they work extensively with local producers. I'm excited to go back and see how the menu changes with the seasons.
1/30/2014
Location
Downtown(?) Niantic
75 Pennsylvania Avenue, Niantic, CT
What I ate
Beet and orange parfait with whipped ricotta and pistachios
Sliced tenderloin with maple dijon sauce, greens, and roasted potatoes
Citrus olive oil cake
Who came
Jolene, Michael, Talina, Rempy, Helena, Zurita, Erin
Website
La Belle Aurore
Thoughts
Hat tip to CT Restaurant Weeks for identifying this place. I'm still exploring this town and the surrounding areas, so having a guide like that is helpful. This was one of the few prix fixe menus and the farm to table aspect appealed to me, so away we went.
My food was tasty throughout, though a few parts outshined the rest. The appetizer was delicious. The earthy beets mixed well with the not-too-tart oranges and the different textures - light but rich (weird, I know) cheese, a slight crunch to the beets, the slightly different kind of crunch to the pistachios - kept the whole thing interesting. I would've gladly eaten another one. My steak was pretty good and the potatoes were salty and fried in a very satisfying way, but the greens were the best part of the entree. As deep as we were in winter, the freshness was a welcome change. I'm going to find their supplier and see if I can get some directly. The cake probably wouldn't be great on its own, but it was a pleasant way to end the meal, to tie everything together. It had the "clean" taste that I associate with olive oil cookies and cakes and managed to stay light and mild. Their beer list was small, but had a few great options. As a group, we did a pretty good job with variety, getting at least one of almost everything, so I'll let my friends comment on the other offerings.
It's a cozy place, tucked away in a little strip mall. We were easily the biggest group there, but they were able to seat us comfortably. It felt very homey, like a little cafe; I'm sure it's lovely in warmer weather. There were a few times it felt like the service was a little slow - big gaps between courses, some delay in getting everyone's dish out - but it really wasn't a problem. In fact, it helped keep conversation going. I don't know if this is the same for a couple or a smaller crowd, but it a net positive for our big group. During the meal, I felt like the portions seemed small, but this is another aspect that looks fine in retrospect. I was certainly full at the end of the meal, so I guess it'd be unfair to say portion size was an issue. All told, it was a fun night out with plenty of good food.
Recap
Pros - Local, tasty, creative food, solid beer list
Cons - Small? I'm nit-picking, there wasn't much wrong
Overall - See the last line of the review. The food is good and they work extensively with local producers. I'm excited to go back and see how the menu changes with the seasons.
Clydz
Date
11/30/2013
Location
Downtown New Brunswick, by the court house
55 Patterson Street, New Brunswick, NJ 08901
What I ate
Antelope carpaccio
Braised python ravioli
Ostrich lorraine
What I drank
Tennesse Williams (Old Overholt, Carpano Antica, Scotch, maraschino, Benedictine, walnut bitters)
Who came
Mom, Dad, Dan, Julie
Website
Clydz
Thoughts
This is yet another long-overdue review, so I won't have much in the way of details. Given the menu, Clydz is obviously not a place you go on a whim; it's a place for adventurous eating. That said, there are plenty of less exotic proteins on the menu and, if my meal was any indication, they don't just sit back and let "Hey, python is cool!" carry the show. Everything was delicious and the extensive drink menu was a great complement.
It's on the small side, space-wise, and is lit in a way that makes me think of a speakeasy (or at least my image of one). The waitress was conversational and quite knowledgeable about both food and drink, something a little more difficult here than at most places. Being in downtown New Brunswick can make the logistics tough, but it's worth making the trip.
Recap
Pros - Delicious, exotic food, great drink menu
Cons - Expensive, though not prohibitively so
Overall - It's a great place for a nice meal, especially for adventurous eaters. If going in a group, I advise turning the hot and cold plates into a tapas-style meal.
11/30/2013
Location
Downtown New Brunswick, by the court house
55 Patterson Street, New Brunswick, NJ 08901
What I ate
Antelope carpaccio
Braised python ravioli
Ostrich lorraine
What I drank
Tennesse Williams (Old Overholt, Carpano Antica, Scotch, maraschino, Benedictine, walnut bitters)
Who came
Mom, Dad, Dan, Julie
Website
Clydz
Thoughts
This is yet another long-overdue review, so I won't have much in the way of details. Given the menu, Clydz is obviously not a place you go on a whim; it's a place for adventurous eating. That said, there are plenty of less exotic proteins on the menu and, if my meal was any indication, they don't just sit back and let "Hey, python is cool!" carry the show. Everything was delicious and the extensive drink menu was a great complement.
It's on the small side, space-wise, and is lit in a way that makes me think of a speakeasy (or at least my image of one). The waitress was conversational and quite knowledgeable about both food and drink, something a little more difficult here than at most places. Being in downtown New Brunswick can make the logistics tough, but it's worth making the trip.
Recap
Pros - Delicious, exotic food, great drink menu
Cons - Expensive, though not prohibitively so
Overall - It's a great place for a nice meal, especially for adventurous eaters. If going in a group, I advise turning the hot and cold plates into a tapas-style meal.
Agricola
Date
7/16/2013
Location
Downtown Princeton
11 Witherspoon Street
What I ate
Pickled vegetable plate (cucumbers, zucchini, pearl onions, ramps, golden beets, green beans, rainbow chard stalks)
Braised beef short rib
Chocolate beet cake/peach pie/Meyer lemon cheesecake
Who came
Mom, Dad
Website
Agricola Eatery
Thoughts
I never got around to writing this full review and my memory is too foggy to do it justice now. I'm eager to get back when I'm home; it feels like a good place to have a fancier-than-average meal. The waitress was happy to answer my questions about their sources - I felt comfortable asking since they advertised it all over their menu. The pickled plate is quickly becoming one of my favorite things at any restaurant and their's didn't disappoint. At my asking, they sent me a copy of the recipe for the beets. It didn't turn out nearly as well as what I had at the there, but it I'll try again sometime. I didn't check out their bar, but it seemed quite well-stocked.
Recap
Pros - Tasty food with an emphasis on local sources
Cons - I can't remember anything that stands out
Overall - Go here for a nice night out in Princeton. It'd probably be good for after drinks, though I may be looking for any excuse to have the pickled plate.
7/16/2013
Location
Downtown Princeton
11 Witherspoon Street
What I ate
Pickled vegetable plate (cucumbers, zucchini, pearl onions, ramps, golden beets, green beans, rainbow chard stalks)
Braised beef short rib
Chocolate beet cake/peach pie/Meyer lemon cheesecake
Who came
Mom, Dad
Website
Agricola Eatery
Thoughts
I never got around to writing this full review and my memory is too foggy to do it justice now. I'm eager to get back when I'm home; it feels like a good place to have a fancier-than-average meal. The waitress was happy to answer my questions about their sources - I felt comfortable asking since they advertised it all over their menu. The pickled plate is quickly becoming one of my favorite things at any restaurant and their's didn't disappoint. At my asking, they sent me a copy of the recipe for the beets. It didn't turn out nearly as well as what I had at the there, but it I'll try again sometime. I didn't check out their bar, but it seemed quite well-stocked.
Recap
Pros - Tasty food with an emphasis on local sources
Cons - I can't remember anything that stands out
Overall - Go here for a nice night out in Princeton. It'd probably be good for after drinks, though I may be looking for any excuse to have the pickled plate.
Monday, June 10, 2013
The Bank Food and Drink
Date
6/6/2013
Location
Downtown Pearisburg
101 North Main Street
What I ate
Sweet potato soup with chipotle peppers and maple cream
Crispy duck breast with sauteed broccolini and creamy chipotle grits
Carrot cake with ginger cream cheese frosting and ginger chocolate sauce
What I drank
Dr. Cocktail's Old Fashioned
Zinfandel (Cline California '11, assuming the wine list hasn't changed in the past few days)
Who came
Chris, Elizabeth, Jess, Bill, Ben, Julia, Matt, Cassie
Website
The Bank Food and Drink
Thoughts
On occasional Thursday nights, The Bank brings in local artists and lets people grab a drink while they meet the artists and see their work. Check the website to see when the next event is and who will be there. We saw a room full of impressive pottery and another one with some interesting paintings. One of the artists had a book full of custom business cards - art and a phrase on one side and contact information (her website) on the back. Mine doesn't translate literally to English that well, but the message is apparently along the lines of "que sera, sera". It's really a nice little event, definitely worth checking out some time.
My lacking art vocabulary is part of what prevents me from doing the art justice here, but I was certainly distracted by my excellent Old Fashioned. It was so smooth that two unnamed non-bourbon fans in the group preferred it to their drink. Angostura bitters will be on my grocery list so I can try my hand at making something half as delicious. I heard good things about the Dark and Stormy and Pimm's Cup, too. Hopefully my fellow tipplers will chime in with their comments.
I started with a chipotle sweet potato soup that was finished with a maple cream sauce. The soup was rich and earthy, and the background smokiness from the peppers kept it from being too heavy. The sauce offered a really nice counterpoint, but this was somewhat muted as it was more mixed into the soup; in retrospect, I guess that's my fault. My entree was quite tasty. The duck was well-cooked and the crust gave just a hint of sweetness. The grits continued the smoky trend for the evening, playing a good complement to the meat. I don't know that they made for a solid "everything on the plate in one bite" forkful, but the saltiness and overall "green" taste of broccolini helped maintain balance. Many thanks to Ben for sharing his wine. My wine-describing vocabulary is about as barren as my art-describing one, but this had a soft smokiness that blended well with the meal. I was too full for dessert, but between the offerings and the sell job, I couldn't possibly decline. If you're a slave to tradition and you want Carrot Cake, you might not enjoy what I had. But then you would be going about your life in a sad, boring manner. Don't do that. Eat this delicious cake. Ginger was probably the predominant taste, but cream from the frosting and carrot from the cake made strong showings, too.
I don't know where they put the other diners, but we had a nice little room all to ourselves. Our waitress was very helpful, answering questions about the menu and even participating in discussions of cultural touchstones like Blenheim red cap ginger beer or Voyage of the Mimi. The chef came out to meet us after the meal; we had a nice conversation with him, too. Both he and our waitress remembered Jess and Bill, who had been there the week prior.
I'm having trouble coming up with any negatives from the experience. They did run out of bread which, while tasty, seemed more important as a vehicle for the scrumptious house-made butter. I think I heard some rumblings from those who didn't order an appetizer that it seemed like their entree was a long time coming, but I was fine and it's the kind of place that fosters good conversation. We only stopped talking when dinner arrived which, as our waitress astutely observed, meant we were happily munching. Don't come here expecting cheap eats, but they don't purport to be that kind of restaurant. For the quality and amount of food I had, the price felt appropriate.
Recap
Pros - Delicious food. Great cocktails. Comfortable atmosphere and friendly service. What more could you want?
Cons - Other than being a half-hour drive away, nothing really.
Overall - This was easily one of the best dinners I've had since I moved to Blacksburg. It's a great place for a night out and one that I'll visit again.
6/6/2013
Location
Downtown Pearisburg
101 North Main Street
What I ate
Sweet potato soup with chipotle peppers and maple cream
Crispy duck breast with sauteed broccolini and creamy chipotle grits
Carrot cake with ginger cream cheese frosting and ginger chocolate sauce
What I drank
Dr. Cocktail's Old Fashioned
Zinfandel (Cline California '11, assuming the wine list hasn't changed in the past few days)
Who came
Chris, Elizabeth, Jess, Bill, Ben, Julia, Matt, Cassie
Website
The Bank Food and Drink
Thoughts
On occasional Thursday nights, The Bank brings in local artists and lets people grab a drink while they meet the artists and see their work. Check the website to see when the next event is and who will be there. We saw a room full of impressive pottery and another one with some interesting paintings. One of the artists had a book full of custom business cards - art and a phrase on one side and contact information (her website) on the back. Mine doesn't translate literally to English that well, but the message is apparently along the lines of "que sera, sera". It's really a nice little event, definitely worth checking out some time.
My lacking art vocabulary is part of what prevents me from doing the art justice here, but I was certainly distracted by my excellent Old Fashioned. It was so smooth that two unnamed non-bourbon fans in the group preferred it to their drink. Angostura bitters will be on my grocery list so I can try my hand at making something half as delicious. I heard good things about the Dark and Stormy and Pimm's Cup, too. Hopefully my fellow tipplers will chime in with their comments.
I started with a chipotle sweet potato soup that was finished with a maple cream sauce. The soup was rich and earthy, and the background smokiness from the peppers kept it from being too heavy. The sauce offered a really nice counterpoint, but this was somewhat muted as it was more mixed into the soup; in retrospect, I guess that's my fault. My entree was quite tasty. The duck was well-cooked and the crust gave just a hint of sweetness. The grits continued the smoky trend for the evening, playing a good complement to the meat. I don't know that they made for a solid "everything on the plate in one bite" forkful, but the saltiness and overall "green" taste of broccolini helped maintain balance. Many thanks to Ben for sharing his wine. My wine-describing vocabulary is about as barren as my art-describing one, but this had a soft smokiness that blended well with the meal. I was too full for dessert, but between the offerings and the sell job, I couldn't possibly decline. If you're a slave to tradition and you want Carrot Cake, you might not enjoy what I had. But then you would be going about your life in a sad, boring manner. Don't do that. Eat this delicious cake. Ginger was probably the predominant taste, but cream from the frosting and carrot from the cake made strong showings, too.
I don't know where they put the other diners, but we had a nice little room all to ourselves. Our waitress was very helpful, answering questions about the menu and even participating in discussions of cultural touchstones like Blenheim red cap ginger beer or Voyage of the Mimi. The chef came out to meet us after the meal; we had a nice conversation with him, too. Both he and our waitress remembered Jess and Bill, who had been there the week prior.
I'm having trouble coming up with any negatives from the experience. They did run out of bread which, while tasty, seemed more important as a vehicle for the scrumptious house-made butter. I think I heard some rumblings from those who didn't order an appetizer that it seemed like their entree was a long time coming, but I was fine and it's the kind of place that fosters good conversation. We only stopped talking when dinner arrived which, as our waitress astutely observed, meant we were happily munching. Don't come here expecting cheap eats, but they don't purport to be that kind of restaurant. For the quality and amount of food I had, the price felt appropriate.
Recap
Pros - Delicious food. Great cocktails. Comfortable atmosphere and friendly service. What more could you want?
Cons - Other than being a half-hour drive away, nothing really.
Overall - This was easily one of the best dinners I've had since I moved to Blacksburg. It's a great place for a night out and one that I'll visit again.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
l'etoile
Date
1/27/2013
Location
On Main Street across from the Amtrak Station
817 West Main Street
What I ate
Sharondale mushrooms
Ragged Mountain trout
Apple tarte tatin
Who came
Kelly
Website
l'etoile
Thoughts
First a disclaimer - I am biased. Not only did I have one of my top 5 meals ever here for Restaurant Week a few years ago, but I will have serious trouble saying anything bad about Chef Gresge. When I found myself with a bunch of sweetbreads and no idea what to do, I called him and he spent almost half an hour on the phone. He taught me how to make them and just talked about he likes to use them. Unsurprisingly, the ones I made were delicious - he deserves as much credit for that as anyone. OK, now time for my biased review.
I love the setup. I have only been to France once and it was a while ago, but it feels like I would expect a small French dinner hotspot to feel. I would not take a group of more than 5 or 6 there, but it's perfect for small gatherings. Somehow, they put a bunch of people in a small space without making it feel cramped. Our waitress was very nice and offered to pass along my sweetbread-related thanks to the chef. All told, this is a great spot to nurse some scotch and just chat.
I know some of you do not like mushrooms and I have often heard the texture cited as the main reason. You are crazy. These mushrooms were earthy and just a little chewy, just all-around delicious. The grits did not add much flavor, but offered a nice contrast in texture with their creaminess. I forgot about the chevre buried in the middle until it was almost too late. I was able to have a few bites that brought together each element of the dish for some tasty forkfuls. The trout is another reminder that I need to learn how to cook fish more than one way. There was a bite to the outside that almost felt like it was fried, but the inside was still moist and tender. Simply put, it was fish done right. The accompaniments were good, but didn't add that much. The lentils were good and provided contrasting texture (sensing a theme?) but the squash puree and the peppers were a little too sweet to fully complement the fish.
It's easy to look back now and remember how good this meal was, but how I felt afterward is a reminder that momentum is, at least in the moment (ha!), a real thing. The first word that comes to mind for dessert is "dense". I am, admittedly, not good at baking. As such, I don't have a good conception of what a tarte tatin is really supposed to be like. Apparently, this ignorance worked to my benefit. I'll let her comment, but it seemed like Kelly (read: accomplished, knowledgeable baker) was particularly disappointed. The apples were delicious, but they were swallowed up by the pastry portion. The honey thyme ice cream could have helped cut through this, but it was far too subtle. Had the ratio of apples to pastry been higher, the dessert probably would have been great. Again, my baking ignorance might compromise my ability to fully understand, but dessert put a not-so-flattering bow on an otherwise great meal.
Recap
Pros - wonderful atmosphere, great savory dishes
Cons - dessert just wasn't good
Overall - I'll be back. The dessert was incongruous with how awesome everything else was, food and otherwise. This is still one of the best places to take a group of 2-4 for a nice meal.
1/27/2013
Location
On Main Street across from the Amtrak Station
817 West Main Street
What I ate
Sharondale mushrooms
Ragged Mountain trout
Apple tarte tatin
Who came
Kelly
Website
l'etoile
Thoughts
First a disclaimer - I am biased. Not only did I have one of my top 5 meals ever here for Restaurant Week a few years ago, but I will have serious trouble saying anything bad about Chef Gresge. When I found myself with a bunch of sweetbreads and no idea what to do, I called him and he spent almost half an hour on the phone. He taught me how to make them and just talked about he likes to use them. Unsurprisingly, the ones I made were delicious - he deserves as much credit for that as anyone. OK, now time for my biased review.
I love the setup. I have only been to France once and it was a while ago, but it feels like I would expect a small French dinner hotspot to feel. I would not take a group of more than 5 or 6 there, but it's perfect for small gatherings. Somehow, they put a bunch of people in a small space without making it feel cramped. Our waitress was very nice and offered to pass along my sweetbread-related thanks to the chef. All told, this is a great spot to nurse some scotch and just chat.
I know some of you do not like mushrooms and I have often heard the texture cited as the main reason. You are crazy. These mushrooms were earthy and just a little chewy, just all-around delicious. The grits did not add much flavor, but offered a nice contrast in texture with their creaminess. I forgot about the chevre buried in the middle until it was almost too late. I was able to have a few bites that brought together each element of the dish for some tasty forkfuls. The trout is another reminder that I need to learn how to cook fish more than one way. There was a bite to the outside that almost felt like it was fried, but the inside was still moist and tender. Simply put, it was fish done right. The accompaniments were good, but didn't add that much. The lentils were good and provided contrasting texture (sensing a theme?) but the squash puree and the peppers were a little too sweet to fully complement the fish.
It's easy to look back now and remember how good this meal was, but how I felt afterward is a reminder that momentum is, at least in the moment (ha!), a real thing. The first word that comes to mind for dessert is "dense". I am, admittedly, not good at baking. As such, I don't have a good conception of what a tarte tatin is really supposed to be like. Apparently, this ignorance worked to my benefit. I'll let her comment, but it seemed like Kelly (read: accomplished, knowledgeable baker) was particularly disappointed. The apples were delicious, but they were swallowed up by the pastry portion. The honey thyme ice cream could have helped cut through this, but it was far too subtle. Had the ratio of apples to pastry been higher, the dessert probably would have been great. Again, my baking ignorance might compromise my ability to fully understand, but dessert put a not-so-flattering bow on an otherwise great meal.
Recap
Pros - wonderful atmosphere, great savory dishes
Cons - dessert just wasn't good
Overall - I'll be back. The dessert was incongruous with how awesome everything else was, food and otherwise. This is still one of the best places to take a group of 2-4 for a nice meal.
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