Monday, June 10, 2013

The Bank Food and Drink

Date
6/6/2013

Location
Downtown Pearisburg
101 North Main Street

What I ate
Sweet potato soup with chipotle peppers and maple cream
Crispy duck breast with sauteed broccolini and creamy chipotle grits
Carrot cake with ginger cream cheese frosting and ginger chocolate sauce

What I drank
Dr. Cocktail's Old Fashioned
Zinfandel (Cline California '11, assuming the wine list hasn't changed in the past few days)

Who came
Chris, Elizabeth, Jess, Bill, Ben, Julia, Matt, Cassie

Website
The Bank Food and Drink

Thoughts
On occasional Thursday nights, The Bank brings in local artists and lets people grab a drink while they meet the artists and see their work.  Check the website to see when the next event is and who will be there.  We saw a room full of impressive pottery and another one with some interesting paintings.  One of the artists had a book full of custom business cards - art and a phrase on one side and contact information (her website) on the back.  Mine doesn't translate literally to English that well, but the message is apparently along the lines of "que sera, sera".  It's really a nice little event, definitely worth checking out some time.

My lacking art vocabulary is part of what prevents me from doing the art justice here, but I was certainly distracted by my excellent Old Fashioned.  It was so smooth that two unnamed non-bourbon fans in the group preferred it to their drink.  Angostura bitters will be on my grocery list so I can try my hand at making something half as delicious.  I heard good things about the Dark and Stormy and Pimm's Cup, too.  Hopefully my fellow tipplers will chime in with their comments.

I started with a chipotle sweet potato soup that was finished with a maple cream sauce.  The soup was rich and earthy, and the background smokiness from the peppers kept it from being too heavy.  The sauce offered a really nice counterpoint, but this was somewhat muted as it was more mixed into the soup; in retrospect, I guess that's my fault.  My entree was quite tasty.  The duck was well-cooked and the crust gave just a hint of sweetness.  The grits continued the smoky trend for the evening, playing a good complement to the meat.  I don't know that they made for a solid "everything on the plate in one bite" forkful, but the saltiness and overall "green" taste of broccolini helped maintain balance.  Many thanks to Ben for sharing his wine.  My wine-describing vocabulary is about as barren as my art-describing one, but this had a soft smokiness that blended well with the meal.  I was too full for dessert, but between the offerings and the sell job, I couldn't possibly decline.  If you're a slave to tradition and you want Carrot Cake, you might not enjoy what I had.  But then you would be going about your life in a sad, boring manner.  Don't do that.  Eat this delicious cake.  Ginger was probably the predominant taste, but cream from the frosting and carrot from the cake made strong showings, too.

I don't know where they put the other diners, but we had a nice little room all to ourselves.  Our waitress was very helpful, answering questions about the menu and even participating in discussions of cultural touchstones like Blenheim red cap ginger beer or Voyage of the Mimi.  The chef came out to meet us after the meal; we had a nice conversation with him, too.  Both he and our waitress remembered Jess and Bill, who had been there the week prior.

I'm having trouble coming up with any negatives from the experience.  They did run out of bread which, while tasty, seemed more important as a vehicle for the scrumptious house-made butter.  I think I heard some rumblings from those who didn't order an appetizer that it seemed like their entree was a long time coming, but I was fine and it's the kind of place that fosters good conversation.  We only stopped talking when dinner arrived which, as our waitress astutely observed, meant we were happily munching.  Don't come here expecting cheap eats, but they don't purport to be that kind of restaurant.  For the quality and amount of food I had, the price felt appropriate.

Recap
Pros - Delicious food.  Great cocktails.  Comfortable atmosphere and friendly service.  What more could you want?
Cons - Other than being a half-hour drive away, nothing really.
Overall - This was easily one of the best dinners I've had since I moved to Blacksburg.  It's a great place for a night out and one that I'll visit again.

Saturday, February 16, 2013

l'etoile

Date
1/27/2013

Location
On Main Street across from the Amtrak Station
817 West Main Street

What I ate
Sharondale mushrooms
Ragged Mountain trout
Apple tarte tatin

Who came
Kelly

Website
l'etoile

Thoughts
First a disclaimer - I am biased.  Not only did I have one of my top 5 meals ever here for Restaurant Week a few years ago, but I will have serious trouble saying anything bad about Chef Gresge.  When I found myself with a bunch of sweetbreads and no idea what to do, I called him and he spent almost half an hour on the phone.  He taught me how to make them and just talked about he likes to use them.  Unsurprisingly, the ones I made were delicious - he deserves as much credit for that as anyone.  OK, now time for my biased review.

I love the setup.  I have only been to France once and it was a while ago, but it feels like I would expect a small French dinner hotspot to feel.  I would not take a group of more than 5 or 6 there, but it's perfect for small gatherings.  Somehow, they put a bunch of people in a small space without making it feel cramped.  Our waitress was very nice and offered to pass along my sweetbread-related thanks to the chef.  All told, this is a great spot to nurse some scotch and just chat.

I know some of you do not like mushrooms and I have often heard the texture cited as the main reason.  You are crazy.  These mushrooms were earthy and just a little chewy, just all-around delicious.  The grits did not add much flavor, but offered a nice contrast in texture with their creaminess.  I forgot about the chevre buried in the middle until it was almost too late.  I was able to have a few bites that brought together each element of the dish for some tasty forkfuls.  The trout is another reminder that I need to learn how to cook fish more than one way.  There was a bite to the outside that almost felt like it was fried, but the inside was still moist and tender.  Simply put, it was fish done right.  The accompaniments were good, but didn't add that much.  The lentils were good and provided contrasting texture (sensing a theme?) but the squash puree and the peppers were a little too sweet to fully complement the fish.

It's easy to look back now and remember how good this meal was, but how I felt afterward is a reminder that momentum is, at least in the moment (ha!), a real thing.  The first word that comes to mind for dessert is "dense".  I am, admittedly, not good at baking.  As such, I don't have a good conception of what a tarte tatin is really supposed to be like.  Apparently, this ignorance worked to my benefit.  I'll let her comment, but it seemed like Kelly (read: accomplished, knowledgeable baker) was particularly disappointed.  The apples were delicious, but they were swallowed up by the pastry portion.  The honey thyme ice cream could have helped cut through this, but it was far too subtle.  Had the ratio of apples to pastry been higher, the dessert probably would have been great.  Again, my baking ignorance might compromise my ability to fully understand, but dessert put a not-so-flattering bow on an otherwise great meal.

Recap
Pros - wonderful atmosphere, great savory dishes
Cons - dessert just wasn't good
Overall - I'll be back.  The dessert was incongruous with how awesome everything else was, food and otherwise.  This is still one of the best places to take a group of 2-4 for a nice meal.

Old Mill Room at Boar's Head

Date
1/26/2013

Location
The Boar's Head Inn, just out Ivy Road
200 Ednam Drive

What I ate
Atlantic salmon tartare
Grilled flat iron steak
Blood orange panna cotta

Who came
Nora, Lindsay, Ali

Website
The Old Mill Room

Thoughts
It's Restaurant Week again!  I happened to have the flexibility to get away for the weekend, so I drove to Charlottesville and caught up with good friends.  First up was the Old Mill Room at the Boar's Head Inn.  The dining room feels very warm - not in temperature, but just like a rich, old banquet hall.  If our waitress hadn't seemed a little antsy to move us along, I would've been pretty comfortable just hanging out there for a while.  It just seems like a good place to nurse an after-dinner drink and catch up.  Alas.  Let's move on to the food.

My appetizer was really tasty; I may have to learn how to pickle things to help accent dishes like this.  The slightly sour taste put a sharp edge at the end of each bite, but the "salmonness" of the fish still led the way.  While I know a flat iron steak isn't exactly filet mignon, I was a little disappointed by my entree.  The complements were great - I especially liked the surprising crunch of the kale - so the dish was good on the whole, but the steak just was so-so.  It was a sort of mix between being a true medium rare and Pittsburgh, and it felt like a relatively small portion.  The dessert, however, helped the meal rebound in a big way.  Not only that, but I backed into this find when the girls all ordered the creme brulee and I felt the need to branch out.  Tart is not high up on my list of favorite flavors, but there was just enough of it and the panna cotta was so light and delicate.  The cranberry compote bumped the overall quality up a smidge, but there was only so far to go.  The ginger in the ice cream wasn't very strong.  I love ginger and, normally, this would've been a problem.  It worked in this case since it didn't distract from the panna cotta.

One of my favorite things about Restaurant Week is that I get to go places that are normally too expensive for a non-celebratory dinner.  I went to the Old Mill Room during my first Restaurant Week and really enjoyed it.  This meal was definitely good, but didn't live up to previous years.  The biggest difference was that it was obvious that it was Restaurant Week this time whereas it felt like we were getting the normal experience last time.  Our waitress seemed a little out of sorts and the portions all felt tiny.  I enjoyed going there, but I think it could be some time before it rotates back into my Restaurant Week lineup.

Recap
Pros - comfortable atmosphere, awesome dessert
Cons - underwhelming steak, small portions
Overall - A good meal that benefited from some late-meal momentum.  This is still a place to go if you are celebrating or catching up with old friends.  With so many other options in town, I'll probably wait a while before going back.

Atlanta Recap - Brick Store Pub, Cakes & Ale, Parish Food & Goods, etc.

I started writing these when I was in Atlanta, but I never got around to finishing them.  Now it's 6 months after I visited and I couldn't do the reviews justice.  I don't want to let them go unreviewed, so here are the quick hits.  Hopefully, I'll go back and I'll write full reviews.

BRICK STORE PUB
Location
125 E. Court Square, Decatur, GA

What I ate
Pickle jar - okra, zucchini, squash, pineapple
Pierogies
Cast-iron pot pie

What I drank
Rodenbach Grand Cru
Deproef Signature Ale

Who went
Courtney, Alex, Tara

Website
Brick Store Pub

Recap
Pros - Great beer menu, pickle jar was delicious
Cons - Atmosphere is good but not great, a little loud and not the best lit
Overall - Worth it for the beer alone, it's probably my favorite spot on the square in Decatur

CAKES & ALE

Location
155 Sycamore Street, Decatur, GA

What I ate
Arancini with citrus and fennel pollen
Lamb leg, potato-garlic puree, lima & pole beans, mixed greens
Bourbon pineapple upside down cake with salted caramel and gingerbread ice cream (and white pepper!)

Who went
Grandma and Grandpa

Website
Cakes & Ale

Recap
Pros - Delicious dessert, great atmosphere
Cons - Small portions, limited (though good) beer selection
Overall - For a place called Cakes & Ale, I had hoped for a bit more beer.  The food was really good, but it's a little on the expensive side.  Definitely a good place for special occasions.

PARISH FOOD & GOODS

Location
Inman Park
240 N Highland Avenue, Atlanta

What I ate
Deviled chicken hearts with roasted carrot puree, brioche
Roasted chicken thigh and leg, smoked onion and swiss chard gratin, sorrel pistou
Banana bread pudding, toffee sauce, whiskey vanilla ice cream

Who went
Anna

Website
Parish Food and Goods

Thoughts
Drinks, bartender, atmosphere, Inman Park

Recap
Pros - Tasty food, good beer selection, excellent atmosphere (and awesome bartender)
Cons - Frankly, can't think of any
Overall - This was a great evening.  When I get back to Atlanta, I'm definitely heading here.

OTHER PLACES
Tartufo Pizzaria - best pizza I've had south of NJ (the owner is a transplant)
Cafe Alsace - cute little French bistro
The Porter Beer Bar - best beer menu I've ever seen
Atlanta Fish Market - wonderful seafood