Date
1/27/2013
Location
On Main Street across from the Amtrak Station
817 West Main Street
What I ate
Sharondale mushrooms
Ragged Mountain trout
Apple tarte tatin
Who came
Kelly
Website
l'etoile
Thoughts
First a disclaimer - I am biased. Not only did I have one of my top 5 meals ever here for Restaurant Week a few years ago, but I will have serious trouble saying anything bad about Chef Gresge. When I found myself with a bunch of sweetbreads and no idea what to do, I called him and he spent almost half an hour on the phone. He taught me how to make them and just talked about he likes to use them. Unsurprisingly, the ones I made were delicious - he deserves as much credit for that as anyone. OK, now time for my biased review.
I love the setup. I have only been to France once and it was a while ago, but it feels like I would expect a small French dinner hotspot to feel. I would not take a group of more than 5 or 6 there, but it's perfect for small gatherings. Somehow, they put a bunch of people in a small space without making it feel cramped. Our waitress was very nice and offered to pass along my sweetbread-related thanks to the chef. All told, this is a great spot to nurse some scotch and just chat.
I know some of you do not like mushrooms and I have often heard the texture cited as the main reason. You are crazy. These mushrooms were earthy and just a little chewy, just all-around delicious. The grits did not add much flavor, but offered a nice contrast in texture with their creaminess. I forgot about the chevre buried in the middle until it was almost too late. I was able to have a few bites that brought together each element of the dish for some tasty forkfuls. The trout is another reminder that I need to learn how to cook fish more than one way. There was a bite to the outside that almost felt like it was fried, but the inside was still moist and tender. Simply put, it was fish done right. The accompaniments were good, but didn't add that much. The lentils were good and provided contrasting texture (sensing a theme?) but the squash puree and the peppers were a little too sweet to fully complement the fish.
It's easy to look back now and remember how good this meal was, but how I felt afterward is a reminder that momentum is, at least in the moment (ha!), a real thing. The first word that comes to mind for dessert is "dense". I am, admittedly, not good at baking. As such, I don't have a good conception of what a tarte tatin is really supposed to be like. Apparently, this ignorance worked to my benefit. I'll let her comment, but it seemed like Kelly (read: accomplished, knowledgeable baker) was particularly disappointed. The apples were delicious, but they were swallowed up by the pastry portion. The honey thyme ice cream could have helped cut through this, but it was far too subtle. Had the ratio of apples to pastry been higher, the dessert probably would have been great. Again, my baking ignorance might compromise my ability to fully understand, but dessert put a not-so-flattering bow on an otherwise great meal.
Recap
Pros - wonderful atmosphere, great savory dishes
Cons - dessert just wasn't good
Overall - I'll be back. The dessert was incongruous with how awesome everything else was, food and otherwise. This is still one of the best places to take a group of 2-4 for a nice meal.
Saturday, February 16, 2013
Old Mill Room at Boar's Head
Date
1/26/2013
Location
The Boar's Head Inn, just out Ivy Road
200 Ednam Drive
What I ate
Atlantic salmon tartare
Grilled flat iron steak
Blood orange panna cotta
Who came
Nora, Lindsay, Ali
Website
The Old Mill Room
Thoughts
It's Restaurant Week again! I happened to have the flexibility to get away for the weekend, so I drove to Charlottesville and caught up with good friends. First up was the Old Mill Room at the Boar's Head Inn. The dining room feels very warm - not in temperature, but just like a rich, old banquet hall. If our waitress hadn't seemed a little antsy to move us along, I would've been pretty comfortable just hanging out there for a while. It just seems like a good place to nurse an after-dinner drink and catch up. Alas. Let's move on to the food.
My appetizer was really tasty; I may have to learn how to pickle things to help accent dishes like this. The slightly sour taste put a sharp edge at the end of each bite, but the "salmonness" of the fish still led the way. While I know a flat iron steak isn't exactly filet mignon, I was a little disappointed by my entree. The complements were great - I especially liked the surprising crunch of the kale - so the dish was good on the whole, but the steak just was so-so. It was a sort of mix between being a true medium rare and Pittsburgh, and it felt like a relatively small portion. The dessert, however, helped the meal rebound in a big way. Not only that, but I backed into this find when the girls all ordered the creme brulee and I felt the need to branch out. Tart is not high up on my list of favorite flavors, but there was just enough of it and the panna cotta was so light and delicate. The cranberry compote bumped the overall quality up a smidge, but there was only so far to go. The ginger in the ice cream wasn't very strong. I love ginger and, normally, this would've been a problem. It worked in this case since it didn't distract from the panna cotta.
One of my favorite things about Restaurant Week is that I get to go places that are normally too expensive for a non-celebratory dinner. I went to the Old Mill Room during my first Restaurant Week and really enjoyed it. This meal was definitely good, but didn't live up to previous years. The biggest difference was that it was obvious that it was Restaurant Week this time whereas it felt like we were getting the normal experience last time. Our waitress seemed a little out of sorts and the portions all felt tiny. I enjoyed going there, but I think it could be some time before it rotates back into my Restaurant Week lineup.
Recap
Pros - comfortable atmosphere, awesome dessert
Cons - underwhelming steak, small portions
Overall - A good meal that benefited from some late-meal momentum. This is still a place to go if you are celebrating or catching up with old friends. With so many other options in town, I'll probably wait a while before going back.
1/26/2013
Location
The Boar's Head Inn, just out Ivy Road
200 Ednam Drive
What I ate
Atlantic salmon tartare
Grilled flat iron steak
Blood orange panna cotta
Who came
Nora, Lindsay, Ali
Website
The Old Mill Room
Thoughts
It's Restaurant Week again! I happened to have the flexibility to get away for the weekend, so I drove to Charlottesville and caught up with good friends. First up was the Old Mill Room at the Boar's Head Inn. The dining room feels very warm - not in temperature, but just like a rich, old banquet hall. If our waitress hadn't seemed a little antsy to move us along, I would've been pretty comfortable just hanging out there for a while. It just seems like a good place to nurse an after-dinner drink and catch up. Alas. Let's move on to the food.
My appetizer was really tasty; I may have to learn how to pickle things to help accent dishes like this. The slightly sour taste put a sharp edge at the end of each bite, but the "salmonness" of the fish still led the way. While I know a flat iron steak isn't exactly filet mignon, I was a little disappointed by my entree. The complements were great - I especially liked the surprising crunch of the kale - so the dish was good on the whole, but the steak just was so-so. It was a sort of mix between being a true medium rare and Pittsburgh, and it felt like a relatively small portion. The dessert, however, helped the meal rebound in a big way. Not only that, but I backed into this find when the girls all ordered the creme brulee and I felt the need to branch out. Tart is not high up on my list of favorite flavors, but there was just enough of it and the panna cotta was so light and delicate. The cranberry compote bumped the overall quality up a smidge, but there was only so far to go. The ginger in the ice cream wasn't very strong. I love ginger and, normally, this would've been a problem. It worked in this case since it didn't distract from the panna cotta.
One of my favorite things about Restaurant Week is that I get to go places that are normally too expensive for a non-celebratory dinner. I went to the Old Mill Room during my first Restaurant Week and really enjoyed it. This meal was definitely good, but didn't live up to previous years. The biggest difference was that it was obvious that it was Restaurant Week this time whereas it felt like we were getting the normal experience last time. Our waitress seemed a little out of sorts and the portions all felt tiny. I enjoyed going there, but I think it could be some time before it rotates back into my Restaurant Week lineup.
Recap
Pros - comfortable atmosphere, awesome dessert
Cons - underwhelming steak, small portions
Overall - A good meal that benefited from some late-meal momentum. This is still a place to go if you are celebrating or catching up with old friends. With so many other options in town, I'll probably wait a while before going back.
Atlanta Recap - Brick Store Pub, Cakes & Ale, Parish Food & Goods, etc.
I started writing these when I was in Atlanta, but I never got around to finishing them. Now it's 6 months after I visited and I couldn't do the reviews justice. I don't want to let them go unreviewed, so here are the quick hits. Hopefully, I'll go back and I'll write full reviews.
BRICK STORE PUB
Location
125 E. Court Square, Decatur, GA
What I ate
Pickle jar - okra, zucchini, squash, pineapple
Pierogies
Cast-iron pot pie
What I drank
Rodenbach Grand Cru
Deproef Signature Ale
Who went
Courtney, Alex, Tara
Website
Brick Store Pub
Recap
Pros - Great beer menu, pickle jar was delicious
Cons - Atmosphere is good but not great, a little loud and not the best lit
Overall - Worth it for the beer alone, it's probably my favorite spot on the square in Decatur
CAKES & ALE
Location
155 Sycamore Street, Decatur, GA
What I ate
Arancini with citrus and fennel pollen
Lamb leg, potato-garlic puree, lima & pole beans, mixed greens
Bourbon pineapple upside down cake with salted caramel and gingerbread ice cream (and white pepper!)
Who went
Grandma and Grandpa
Website
Cakes & Ale
Recap
Pros - Delicious dessert, great atmosphere
Cons - Small portions, limited (though good) beer selection
Overall - For a place called Cakes & Ale, I had hoped for a bit more beer. The food was really good, but it's a little on the expensive side. Definitely a good place for special occasions.
PARISH FOOD & GOODS
Location
Inman Park
240 N Highland Avenue, Atlanta
What I ate
Deviled chicken hearts with roasted carrot puree, brioche
Roasted chicken thigh and leg, smoked onion and swiss chard gratin, sorrel pistou
Banana bread pudding, toffee sauce, whiskey vanilla ice cream
Who went
Anna
Website
Parish Food and Goods
Thoughts
Drinks, bartender, atmosphere, Inman Park
Recap
Pros - Tasty food, good beer selection, excellent atmosphere (and awesome bartender)
Cons - Frankly, can't think of any
Overall - This was a great evening. When I get back to Atlanta, I'm definitely heading here.
OTHER PLACES
Tartufo Pizzaria - best pizza I've had south of NJ (the owner is a transplant)
Cafe Alsace - cute little French bistro
The Porter Beer Bar - best beer menu I've ever seen
Atlanta Fish Market - wonderful seafood
BRICK STORE PUB
Location
125 E. Court Square, Decatur, GA
What I ate
Pickle jar - okra, zucchini, squash, pineapple
Pierogies
Cast-iron pot pie
What I drank
Rodenbach Grand Cru
Deproef Signature Ale
Who went
Courtney, Alex, Tara
Website
Brick Store Pub
Recap
Pros - Great beer menu, pickle jar was delicious
Cons - Atmosphere is good but not great, a little loud and not the best lit
Overall - Worth it for the beer alone, it's probably my favorite spot on the square in Decatur
CAKES & ALE
Location
155 Sycamore Street, Decatur, GA
What I ate
Arancini with citrus and fennel pollen
Lamb leg, potato-garlic puree, lima & pole beans, mixed greens
Bourbon pineapple upside down cake with salted caramel and gingerbread ice cream (and white pepper!)
Who went
Grandma and Grandpa
Website
Cakes & Ale
Recap
Pros - Delicious dessert, great atmosphere
Cons - Small portions, limited (though good) beer selection
Overall - For a place called Cakes & Ale, I had hoped for a bit more beer. The food was really good, but it's a little on the expensive side. Definitely a good place for special occasions.
PARISH FOOD & GOODS
Location
Inman Park
240 N Highland Avenue, Atlanta
What I ate
Deviled chicken hearts with roasted carrot puree, brioche
Roasted chicken thigh and leg, smoked onion and swiss chard gratin, sorrel pistou
Banana bread pudding, toffee sauce, whiskey vanilla ice cream
Who went
Anna
Website
Parish Food and Goods
Thoughts
Drinks, bartender, atmosphere, Inman Park
Recap
Pros - Tasty food, good beer selection, excellent atmosphere (and awesome bartender)
Cons - Frankly, can't think of any
Overall - This was a great evening. When I get back to Atlanta, I'm definitely heading here.
OTHER PLACES
Tartufo Pizzaria - best pizza I've had south of NJ (the owner is a transplant)
Cafe Alsace - cute little French bistro
The Porter Beer Bar - best beer menu I've ever seen
Atlanta Fish Market - wonderful seafood
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